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It is written by professional furniture painters, and aimed at DIY who want to successfully prepare and paint waxed pine, varnished pine, bare or painted, laminate effect. This dresser started life as all pine and with care has been transformed into a hand painted feature.

We have you covered. You will learn about: There is a lot to digest if you want to do this properly. There is no single magic bullet that suits all pieces of furniture.

By all means browse through to the end sections on step-by-step painting with oil paint, water-based paint or chalk paint. You are welcome to print off or bookmark the full story for future reference. The better prepared you are, the easier it will be to avoid wasting your money on unsuitable paint and kit. Hopefully the advice will help DIYers finish a project efficiently to a high standard, so you can stand back and think, wow, that was worth the time and effort! From one of many readers who has taken the time to read through our info Thanks so much for recommending Langlows Patina.

What a lovely finish. I also bought an orbital sander as a result of reading the info on your site. Am now researching eggshell finishes on painted furniture — am certain you will have something sensible to say!! More feedback from readers Did you know, the information here is read on average times a month. It is regularly updated to ensure it remains the most relevant information online on this topic. On the flipside, I have the experience to get over most problems, but I would struggle to use some of the cheapest brushes, DIY fillers and dodgy rollers on sale in big DIY sheds.

For best results, tackle furniture painting like the pros: Plan, line up your pro quality tools, paint and sundry materials ready. Aim to be conscientious.

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To get started, make sure you have time to finish! Before you start the work, make sure you have set aside enough free time to complete this project. There is nothing more demoralising than completely underestimating how long a job will take. I can only give guidelines, but to give you at least some frame of reference, allow about an hour to paint one coat on a small bedside cabinet, 2 to 3 hours to paint a coat on a 2 door wardrobe, a good hour to paint a spindle backed chair.

It could take 4 — 8 hours for each coat of paint on a pine dresser with drawers. On top of that is preparation and some filling and sanding between coats. Say you are painting one small wardrobe: If it seems like an awful lot of work, obviously you can call in a professional furniture painter We can give you a fixed price, and at the end of the job, present you with a finished piece of hand-painted furniture that makes you smile.

Main points to consider before starting 1 — Find a piece of furniture to upcycle Look through your house, there is bound to be some piece of wooden furniture to revive. Or go to the local second hand store. Or to the local emporium. But it was paint-able.

The top was sanded backed and I applied 2 thin coats of the Patina product mentioned above. The legs and base frame were cleaned, and sanded lightly. In this instance I used an oil based primer, basecoat and Little Greene oil eggshell.

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  • Any piece of old pine furniture that has gone orange or seems a little out of touch with current tastes is a good candidate for painting! For the same money or even less, you can find professional quality products that will make the job easier.

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  • We can show you how to invest wisely in some great kit and paints. A good workman should blame their tools if the end result is affected by the poor quality of one of their tools!

    It may be tempting to use old paint, old filler, old masking tape, but, please resist. It would be better overall to load up on the kit that gets the job done easiest and with best results.

    Anything is possible, but each type of paint requires a different approach to preparation, and some paint is easier to apply than others. Some systems work better than others. Even in the trade, it is not unusual for painters to gravitate towards the paint type they feel most comfortable applying. The above check list applies to any painting project. Shabby chic or not shabby chic? Shabby chic is basically emulating the natural process of wear and tear on paintwork.

    There are a few misconceptions to clear up: It is way off base to assume that all old furniture and woodwork was painted to a rubbish standard before it started to wear off! Back in the day, furniture would have been painted by professionals and DIY, just like nowadays, and there would have been good and bad workmanship.

    Coach painters are probably the ultimate hand painted furniture specialists. Not a bad finish is it! If you go round any stately home or museum, there are endless examples of fantastic painted furniture from yesteryear. The paint used by pros may not have flowed out as well as modern paint, but they would have had their tricks to achieve very smooth finishes. Eventually their paintwork would have worn off through wear and tear and looked distressed.

    It is a challenge to try to emulate good paintwork gone old! In contrast, every homeowner had access to paint and a brush, and could be dangerous let loose on furniture! No doubt furniture was whitewashed by grandma, or odd ends of distemper wall paint were used by homeowners to tidy up old tables, none of which would have looked that great under any sort of scrutiny.

    Aim for attention to detail, not the cheap and cheerful long term expensive approach. If you want shabby chic, you have to use chalk paint. Any paint can easily be shabby chic-ed ie distressed with a judicious use of the sanding block, layers of colour, wax, dust, bits of string… Chalk paint has become synonymous with shabby chic.

    Chalk paint is definitely a very convenient and adaptable paint that lends itself perfectly to distressing. Because of its ease of use, it has made its mark in the home painting enthusiast market. The reality though is that any paint chalk paint, milk paint, egg paint, through to acrylic or oil paint can be applied flat and even, in a block colour and then distressed.

    This wooden headboard was painted with a conventional water based acrylic eggshell and distressed. They could have used chalk paint, roughed up the edges to imitate wear and tear, and protected it with wax, to achieve the same effect.

    Or used oil paint and different tinted polyurethane varnishes or glazes. The point is, if you want a distressed finish, you are not limited to only chalk paint. And if you paint furniture, you are not obliged to distress it. To see what a professional can do with distressing, Lee Simone gives some brilliant advice on distressed paint finishes for furniture. The right colour combination can elevate a really naff piece of furniture into a stunning feature. Paint options There are many furniture paint options, but the basic starting point for non professionals to make a decision, I think, is one of three: Water based, no petro-chemical odours.

    Apply straight on practically any surface, no prep required. It can be thinned down to act like a tinted lacquer, or be slightly thinned and applied for a beautifully smooth solid coat.

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    It can be left smooth, or the smooth finish can be distressed. Alternatively you can leave the lid off till the paint thickens and then lash it on thick with a spatula or a brush, and leave it textured, or distress it, or wax it or everything in between. Either way, you have options and chalk paint is forgiving.

    When I was happy with the positioning of the cables I squeezed the Connectors with the wire cutters on my pliers. Four lifts is generally enough for any chair, table or bed.

    Skilled painters can work really fast with it, and those who have never painted before will achieve reasonable results in a short time! Once painted, you HAVE to protect the chalk paint, usually with wax. Wax has to be applied in thin coats and takes a long time to reach full hardness. The coating is as durable as wax, which for some is not durable enough. Case studies for chalk paint — — Acrylic eggshell. PROS — Modern waterbased paints for woodwork are low odour, quick drying, easy to clean up afterwards, and tough.

    They can be tinted to almost any colour. Once applied you can leave the solid colour, or you can distress it and seal it with a lacquer or wax.

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    CONS — Needs a solid clean base. The surface has to be cleaned, prepared and primed, before the pleasurable part of painting can be done. Water based paints for woodwork have quirks, and the biggest mistake is not applying it thick enough or playing with it too long, resulting in brush marks that will not flow out.

    And for painting furniture. It is mid sheen, self-undercoating, excellent coverage and durable. The finished paint can be left flat or rubbed back in places and varnished if required. It only works well over a thoroughly cleaned, prepared and primed surface.

    cot bed screws b&q Cot bed screws b&q

    Generally the water based approach is favourite for paint effects. Almost everything you need to know about Oil v acrylic eggshell Best paint sheen and brand furniture paint This is a much asked question with no silver bullet answer. Dealing with variables is the number one issue when painting anything. There are endless paint choices. But to keep it simple. Go for an eggshell finish Eggshell is mid sheen, and generally a durable finish.

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